Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
